GLOSSARY

Ever wondered what is actually in your skincare? Well, we are not hiding anything. Look through the glossary to read more about the ingredients we use in your creams as well as other skin concepts.

A
Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil

Is better known as baobab seed oil. The oil contains Omega 3, 6, and 9 fatty acids that contribute to a healthier skin by improving dry and damaged skin. The oil’s content of vitamin D, E and F, pro-vitamin A, sterols and antioxidants also have a soothing effect on scaly skin.

Alanine

Is a naturally-occurring, non-essential amino acid (which means that the body can produce it naturally). It is believed to help "fill up" the creases between epidermal cells, thereby providing the surface of the skin with a smoother appearance. In personal care products alanine is used for its skin conditioning and anti-static properties.

Allantoin

Allantoin is a root extract from a plant called Comfrey. To be honest, allantoin is quite a superstar when it comes to beneficial properties: Besides being non-irritating, studies have shown that allantoin is soothing, wound healing, and anti-inflammatory. But wait, that’s not all! Allantoin can also increase what we skincare nerds call desquamation, which is mild shedding of dead skin cells in the upper layers of the skin - in other words, it can rid you of dead skin cells and make your skin look healthy and glowy.

Amino Acids

Are organic compounds containing amine and carboxyl functional groups, and side chains specific to each amino acid. About 500 naturally occurring amino acids are known, but only 20 of these appears in the genetic code and are considered really important. These can be divided into two different types: the essential and the non-essential. The essential amino acids are not produced by the body itself, but shall be introduced to the body via diet, supplements, and skincare.

Each amino acid performs a specific function in the skin ranging from water transport and antioxidant properties to building blocks for peptides and proteins. So It’s important to provide your body and skin with sufficient levels of amino acids, and especially the essential ones in order to ensure proper functions and healthy skin.

Aqua

Nothing magical about it! Let's be honest - it's just water that's used as a solvent in skincare.

Arginine

Is a small non-essential amino acid, meaning that the human body is capable of synthesising it. It protects against free radicals, increases skin hydration, and boosts collage production. Furthermore, arginine plays an important role in cell division and wound healing.

B
Barrier enhancing complex

The human skin barrier is made up of a wide range of subcomponents. Alongside specialised skin cells called corneocytes, these cells are embedded in a lipid matrix comprised of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. The barrier enhancing complex is also packed with amino acids including: Betaine, Sodium PCA, Sodium lactate, PCA, Serine, Alanine, Glycine, Glutamic acid, Lysine HCL, Threonine, Arginine, and Proline.

Benzyl alcohol

Benzyl alcohol can naturally be found in apricots, cranberries, and many types of tea. We use it as a preservant, but only in low concentrations to stay completely clear of irritating effects.

Betaine

Natural betaine is derived from sugar beets and functions as an osmolyte, which improves how tightly packed skin cells are, thereby preventing water loss and at the same time increases the skin’s resistance towards external irritants. In addition, betaine functions as a texture enhancer, helping creams to have a silky feeling.

BHA

BHA or butylated hydroxytoluene is an antioxidant and preservant widely used in personal care products. Sadly, there are many myths about this ingredient, but the low concentrations we use in Nøie compose absolutely no risk and are completely safe to use.

BHT

BHT or butylated hydroxytoluene is an antioxidant widely used in personal care products. Sadly, there are many myths about this ingredient, but the low concentrations we use in Nøie compose absolutely no risk and are completely safe to use.

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Is an organic compound that is used both as an UV-A and UV-B filter. It's normally used in lighter sunscreens, but when combined with other filters it ensures a high degree of sun protection can be obtained.

Butyrospermum parkii butter

Butyrospermum parkii butter... A long name and much better known as shea butter. It's a type of fat extracted from shea tree nuts and it contains high concentrations of fatty acids and vitamins, which provide the fat with anti-inflammatory and healing effects.

C
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

As an emollient, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate helps to keep the skin moisturised by reducing water loss from the outer layers of the skin. Emollients form a protective barrier on the surface of the skin, trapping moisture and preventing water loss to the surrounding air. Oh, and C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate also serves as a dissolving medium for the sunfilters.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Is a so-called mixed triester derived from coconut oil and glycerin, and can be found in a variety of cosmetic products ranging from moisturisers to perfumes. In creams Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride’s functions are often limited to its emollient properties and as a dispersing agent, meaning that besides protecting the skin against water loss, it also increases the spreadability of the cream.

Caprylyl/capryl glucoside

Oily skin, go away! Caprylyl/capryl glucoside is mild but effective and provides an in-depth cleansing ability. Besides its cleansing properties, it gives your cleanser a lovely foaming texture.

Carbomer

Is the trade name for polyacrylic acid (PAA), a group of high molecular weight polymers used in cosmetic and personal care products as a thickening agent. It has more than 50 years of history as an ingredient in cosmetic products that contain high concentrations of water.

Ceteareth-12

In personal care products, Ceteareth-12 is used as an emulsifying and wetting agent (or put in human language: making the oil- and water phase combine).

Ceteareth-20

Ceteareth-20 serves as a so-called 'penetration enhancer'. As this nick-name indicates, it helps other substances go deeper into the skin, where the substances then can properly work their magic.

Cetearyl alcohol

Is a fatty alcohol derived from palm oil, and used as an emollient, emulsion stabilizer, and viscosity agent in cosmetic formulations. The emollient property provides the skin with a protective layer that reduces water loss across the surface of the skin. It is also often used as an emulsifying agent, allowing oil and water based ingredients to combine in a formulation.

Cetyl alcohol

Cetyl alcohol is an emollient capable of soothing and healing dry skin without being comedogenic, which means that it won't clog your skins pores.

Cetyl Palmitate

Is used as a thickener and emollient in personal care products. Put in other words, it helps smoothen and conditioning the skin. Also, it helps limiting the loss of moisture from the skin's outer layers.

Citric acid

Citric acid is often used in personal care products to directly adjust pH, or as a pH regulating agent in ingredient complex consisting of multiple components to mimic a desired effect.

Cocamidopropyl betaine

This ingredient has mild cleansing properties, ridding your skin of dirt and oil. However, it works best in combination with other cleansing agents, as it is actually too gentle to thoroughly cleanse adult skin on its own.

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Two components from the beloved coconut merged in one beautiful ingredient known as Coco Caprylate/Caprate. It's made by combining esters from coconut-derived fatty alcohol (the non-drying kind of alcohol) with caprylic and capric acids, also from coconut. Besides ensuring moisture retention in the skin by lowering the water loss from the outer layers of the skin, it also provides a dissolving medium for the sunfilters.

Collagen

Is the most abundant protein found in the body, and are distributed throughout the bones, muscles, skin, and tendons. It serves a scaffold to provide strength and structure, thereby holding the body together so to say. In the skin layer of the dermis (the middle layer), collagen helps from a fibrous network of specialised cells called fibroblasts, upon which new cells can grow. Furthermore collagen plays an important role in replacing and restoring dead skin cells.

With age and lifestyle factors like smoking, the body begins to produce less collagen, this leads to a decreased structural integrity, wrinkle formation and weakening of joint cartilage.

As a consequence of the discretion in collagen production, personal care products containing collagen has become more and more popular, and can be found in various types of skin care products like creams and wound dressings.

Copernicia Cerifera Cera

Is also known as Brazil wax due to its origin from Brazilian tropical palm tree. It is widely used in personal care products as an emollient, emulsifying and anti-cracking agent, thereby giving the formulation a pleasant appearance. It is suitable for people with sensitive skin as it is hypoallergenic.

D
Dehydroacetic acid

This ingredient will help preserve your cream so it won’t go bad, and it’s super mild and won’t irritate your skin (of course).

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Is an organic compound used in sunscreens for absorbing UV-A radiation. In contrast to physical sunscreen filters, this compound (not gonna spell its name out again) provides the product with a lighter and more acceptable consistency.

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone

Is an organic, oil-soluble sun filter that absorbs UV-B radiation. Now, this beauty only requires very small concentrations to achieve a high Sun Protection Factor (SPF) which makes the product's consistency more acceptable. So a little bit of this goes a long way for protecting you in the sun.

Disodium edta

Disodium edta is what we skincare nerds call a chelating agent. In essence, it can prevent other ingredients from binding to certain minerals, which can cause the ingredients to become ineffective (yep, it’s nerdy stuff but we like it that way). Think of it as the curling parents of the ingredient-world: It removes obstacles for someone else and makes them shine.

E
Ectoin

Is a 100% natural and multifunctional amino acid derivative belonging to the group of Extremolytes, which are small stress-protective molecules. The effect of ectoin has, in recent years, been shown to include cell protection and anti-aging properties. Besides that, ectoin is capable of reducing skin roughness and redness that is a common symptom of dry and inflamed skin.

Emollients

Are ingredients capable of creating an artificial barrier upon the skin, which serves as a shield against the external environment and decreases water loss, especially during the winter months. Furthermore emollients works as a counteract to the humectants drawing of water to the outer skin layers, which at low humidity can be lost to the surrounding air.

Actually studies have shown that high concentrations of humectants without the counteract from emollients, will lead to increased dryness rather then the desired hydration the humectants are known for. So even though emollient is what sometimes gives a product it’s unpleasant and sticky consistency, they are as you see absolutely a must have when it comes to skincare and -hydration. This is also why heavier cream oftentimes have a much longer effect than light face creams, so everything comes with a price when it comes to skincare.

Some of the most frequently used emollients in personal care products are petrolatum, dimethicone, lanolin, mineral oil, and shea butter to only name a few of what you can expect to find in skincare products.

Emotional hydration complex

This complex acts as an emotional hydration manager, modulator of the brain-skin connection, and has anti-stress properties. The active is the concentrated metabolome of totipotent cells from Curcuma longa rhizome.

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Is an organic compound that is used as an UV-B filter, which, in combination with other sunfilters, provides a high degree of sun protection.

Ethylhexylglycerin

It provides skincare products with the property of improving skin appearances due to its skin conditioning functionality and is generally used a gentle preservative. Top that off with anti-bacterial properties and you have Sodium Benzoate.

F
Free radicals

Is in all its simplicity molecules missing an electron, thereby making it capable of grabbing the missing electron from atoms within our skin. When electrons are being taken by free radicals it causes damage to the skin’s DNA, these damages can speed up the process of aging.

The visual result of damage produced by free radicals can be ranging from discoloration spots or broken blood vessels to predominant wrinkles. Given undesired actions of free radicals, they have become a high priority target when improving the health of skin by personal care products.

So in order to neutralise the unwanted effect that free radicals perform within the skin, many skin care products are being added agents to serve as electron donors to the free radicals. By doing so, the electron requirement of the free radicals are being fulfilled by the donors instead of essential molecules within the skin leading to DNA damage.

G
Glutamic acid

Is a small non-essential amino acid, meaning that the human body is capable of synthesising it. As with many of the other 22 amino acids found in the human body, glutamic acid acts within the skin as a humectant moisturiser and skin conditioning agent. These two functions benefit the skin by boosting water attraction and retention, and improving the integrity of the skin's natural barrier function.

Glycerin

Is a hygroscopic ingredient, meaning it has the ability to draw moisture from the air around us and bind it to the skin. Studies show that glycerin also has the ability to alter the activity of specialised water transporters in the skin called aquaporins, which ensures sufficient hydration of the skin.

Glyceryl caprylate

We love natural ingredients and glyceryl caprylate is no exception. Its talents lie within restoring the oils of the skin, regulating skin moisture and balancing skin hydration. It is as balancing for your skin, as yoga is for your mind.

Glyceryl Glucoside

Is a natural combination of glycerol and glucose. It has a few superpowers: First and foremost, it's proven to stimulate the production of specialised water transportation systems in the human cells (also known as Aquaporins). As if that wasn't enough, it has also shown to increase wound healing and tissue repair AND increasing skin hydration. What a buddy.

Glyceryl Stearate

It is derived from palm kernel and is naturally found in the human body, which acts as a lubricant on the skin’s surface giving it a soft and smooth appearance. Glyceryl Stearate is also used in cosmetic formulations to reduce the greasiness of oils, and to stabilise formulations.

Glycine

Is one of the essential amino acids, which means that it can’t be synthesised within the human body. In personal care products glycine functions as part of the skin’s own Natural Moisturising Factors (NMFs), capable of retaining moisture within the skin. Furthermore, the relatively small molecular size of glycine enables it to effectively penetrate the skin.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Is also known as licorice root oil and is used in cosmetic formulations for its ability to both moisturise, and to function as an anti-inflammatory agent. Its anti-inflammatory property makes it a fantastic ingredient when it comes to improving the redness of the skin and overproduction of facial oil. Furthermore, some studies strongly indicate that Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is highly effective in relieving itchy skin.

H
Helianthus annuus seed oil

Perhaps you already have sunflower seed oil in your kitchen supplies. But did you know that it is also widely used in skincare? The golden yellow oil helps to replenish, strengthen and soothe your irritated skin. On top of this the oil can lend your skin a helping hand with producing all the goodness that keeps your skin barrier strong and healthy.

Heterotheca inuloides flower extract

A natural extract from a delicate yellow flower from Mexico. The extract has been used in traditional medicine for hundreds of years and is known for its anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory wonders. In other words, it can calm your skin whenever it’s irritated.

Humectants

Is a category of ingredients used in personal care products because of their ability to attract water molecules like a magnet. Chemically speaking, humectants are hygroscopic substances capable of forming hydrogen bonds with water, thereby fixating water within the skin and contributing to proper skin hydration.

The potency of humectants are enormes, and they are actually capable of drawing water vapor directly from the air if humidity is above 70%.

The human skin even have a pool of humectants called natural moisturising factor, this pool will sometimes be insufficient due to skin conditions, age or external stimuli. This is why topical application of moisturisers containing humectants are so important in maintaining a hydrated skin and keeping the skin barrier integrity to withstand the changes it faces.

Humectants can literally be found in all types of personal care products, but of course moisturisers contain the highest concentrations.The most commonly used humectants are glycerin, urea, and sodium PCA to just name a few, and these will indeed benefit the skin’s overall health.

Hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivate

This ingredient is a fatty acid derived from olive oil. It can rebuild your skin barrier and protect your skin from losing moisture. But what we love most about it is how it feels super soft on the skin and never leaves that awful sticky feeling that some ingredients with the same benefits do.

Hydrolyzed wintergreen extract

Have you heard about the ingredient salicylic acid? Well, hydrolyzed wintergreen extract is a natural source of salicylic acid extracted from a plant called Eastern Teaberry. Like salicylic acid, the ingredient can rid you of dead skin cells that, if not removed, can clog pores and cause acne. Unlike many other exfoliating acids, hydrolyzed wintergreen extract is water-soluble which makes it able to cleanse your pores in-depth. On top of this, the ingredient has inflammation healing superpowers.

I
Inflammation

Inflammatory skin diseases are the most common problem in dermatology, but inflammation doesn’t have to be associated with a disease. The inflammatory process starts when the skin’s immune system detects, and starts to neutralise a foreign invader such as microbes. When this happens, it often starts with a rash due to infections, internal disease or an allergic reaction.

Following the rash, increased blood flow to the area of inflammation will lead to skin redness, heat, and swelling. Unfortunately this often leads to a self inflicted progression of inflammation caused by scratching in order to alleviate the itch, this is known as the itch-scratch cycle.


The scratching will lead to weakening of the skin barrier, thereby making it less resistant to external factors. The increased external invaders will lead to increased inflammation and itch, so the cycle will essentially become a negative spiral.


In order to avoid the itch-scratch cycle to even start, many skin care products contains anti-inflammatory agents. It’s important to bear in mind, that these anti-inflammatory agents found in non prescription remedies are not strong enough to completely antagonise the inflammatory process, so invaders will still be targeted by the immune system as they should.

Itch relief complex

The itch relief complex is fairly simple and is comprised of the two ingredients glycerin and glycyrrhiza glabra root extract. In the itch relief complex, glycerin functions as a humectant and solvent for the licorice extract, which carries out the actual itch relieving effect. Studies have found that licorice extract is capable of reducing the itchiness of the skin by minimising the skin’s underlying inflammation that leads to the itchy sensation.

L
Lysine HCL

Is a small essential amino acid, meaning that the human body is not capable of synthesising it. As with many of the other 22 amino acids found in the human body#id-lysine hcl, Lysine HCL acts within the skin as a humectant moisturiser and skin conditioning agent. These two functions benefit the skin by boosting water attraction and retention, and improving the integrity of the skin's natural barrier function.

M
Methyl gluceth-10

Sticky moisturisers that never seem to absorb into the skin are the worst! Methyl gluceth-10 is a wonder-ingredient if you want a product with a smooth texture. As a bonus, a cleanser with this ingredient will deliver an amazing moisturisation to your skin.

Microbiome hacking complex

This complex is rich in anti-quorum sensing molecules specially designed for “dermo-hacking”, and blocks the microbiome communication signals to prevent the formation of biofilms and the development of virulence, without killing or threatening the microbiota.

Mipa-cocoyl sarcosinate

Mipa-cocoyl sarcosinate is part of a cleansing trio. The three ingredients work together to rinse off any oil or dirt from your skin without ever irritating it. The trio is completely biodegradable, so it leaves you with both clean skin and a clear conscience.

Myristyl alcohol

Is a fatty alcohol used in cosmetic formulations as an emollient and emulsifier, meaning that it creates a protective layer on the surface of the skin and contributes to the stabilisation of the oil and water- based ingredients in the mixture.

N
Niacinamide

Is an isoform of vitamin B3, and thereby a highly important nutrient in the human body for many reasons. Niacinamide has been shown to significantly improve skin elasticity, signs of aging and inflammation-related redness of the skin. Moreover, niacinamide is currently being researched for its possible benefit towards skin discoloration - but no conclusion has yet been reached.

NMF’s

In order to have a healthy skin and proper barrier integrity, it’s important that outermost layers of epidermis are sufficiently hydrated. The skin’s own pool of chemicals to ensure this hydration are called the Natural Moisturising Factors, these humectants work by attracting and retaining moisture from the deeper skin layers, and the air if possible to the epidermis.

By doing so the NMF’s contribute to the maintenance of skin elasticity, activating hydrolytic enzymes contribution to the shedding of dead skin cells, and support the barrier function that protects the skin from infections.

But the pool of NMFs can due to different causes be depleted leading to insufficient epidermal hydration, barrier function, and thereby overall skin health. In order to correct this, most skin care products contain humectants similar to those constituting the NMFs like glycerin, urea or lactate to only name a few.

P
Panthenol

Is a natural derivative of vitamin B5, and is commonly used in many healing ointments and personal care products. It provides the skin with the ability to better withstand environmental hazards, faster regeneration of skin cells, and the ability to attract and retain water within the skin due to its humectant properties. So all in all it’s a fantastic multifunctional ingredient in personal care.

Paraffinum Liquidum

Is a petroleum derivative that is also commonly referred to as “mineral oil”, which is a highly-refined mineral oil that is suitable skincare products. Paraffinum Liquidum is used in skincare as occlusive ingredient, meaning that it reinforces moisture retention and creates a layer on the surface of the skin. This protects cracked skin from external irritants.

PCA

Is also known as pyroglutamic acid, and is lesser known than it’s sodium salt counterpart - sodium PCA - which is widely used in cosmetic products. Both ingredients function as humectants, capable of attracting, and retaining moisture from the air surrounding the surface of the skin. PCA are naturally found in the human skin as part of the Natural Moisturising Factors (NMF).

Pentylene Glycol

Is a commonly used as a skin conditioning agent in skincare products thanks to its ability to attract and retain moisture in the skin. It falls under the category of ingredients called humectants. Alongside Pentylene Glycol's moisturising properties, studies have shown that it also holds antimicrobial properties.

Petrolatum

Is properly better known as either Petrolatum jelly or vaseline. It is used in personal care products because of its ability to produce a protective barrier over the skin, thereby reducing water loss from the skin's surface and protect against external irritants. A general misconception about petrolatum is that it is unsafe to use, but the petrolatum that is used nowadays has to be refined in a way that makes it absolutely safe without any impurities that may pose a health concern.

Phenoxyethanol

With excellent abilities to stabilize and preserve formulations, this ingredient is popular in skincare products. Additionally, studies have shown that phenoxyethanol has antibacterial talents and can reduce inflammatory acne. It’s a win-win really.

Phosphatidylcholine

Perfectly in line with the complicated name, this ingredient is as nerdy as they get (and we like it). It’s the active ingredient in something called lecithin, which is an essential fat in the human body (I told you this stuff is nerdy!). Phosphatidylcholine is extremely good at binding water. But what we love most about it is how it can transport other ingredients into the skin - a quality that’s absolutely essential to get the best out of your retinol.

Phytosterols

Phytosterol is a natural ingredient that’s found in plant cells. It has amazing capabilities such as UV-protection and anti-inflammatory qualities. But our favourite thing about this ingredient is how it has been shown to have anti-aging properties and can help your skin hang on to that youthful bouncy feeling for longer.

Polyglyceryl-3 caprate

We may have difficulties pronouncing the name of this ingredient, but it is so good for skin cleansing products. Its expertise lies within smoothing your skin as well as securing a velvety texture of the cleanser.

Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate

This lovely blend of fatty acids softens your skin and works its magic powers to mix oil and water in one cleanser. On top of this, it prolongs what we skin nerds like to call “playtime”, which basically means how long time the product maintains its texture and thickness. In other words, with this ingredient your cleanser will feel silky smooth for longer.

Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate

Despite the fancy name, this is a completely natural emulsifier. It has the magic property of mixing oil and water in one formulation, so your cleanser has the best of both worlds. On top of this, it softens and hydrates your skin - what’s not to like?

Polysorbate 20

Polysorbate 20 has the superpowers of mixing oil and water, making your cream have the benefits from both and a heavenly smooth texture as well.

Propanediol

Propandiol is like a really good friend: It brings out the best in others. It’s friendly properties lie within helping other beneficial ingredients absorb even better into your skin and do their magic. As if this wasn’t enough, propanediol will hydrate your skin and leave it with a silky smooth finish.

Propylene Glycol

Is derived from petroleum by propylene oxide hydration, and further metabolised by the body to become lactic acid, which is one of the skin’s Natural Moisturising Factors (NMFs). Propylene Glycol is assessed as being a moisturiser, skin conditioning agent, solvent, and carrier for other ingredients, so it's no wonder Propylene Glycol is one of the most widely used ingredients in the cosmetic industry.

Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil

Better known as sweet almond oil. This luscious oil made from almonds is perfect for cleansing products as it helps other oils reach deeper into the skin. As a consequence, cleansers with sweet almond oil provide an in-depth cleansing effect for your skin.

Prunus armeniaca kernel oil

Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, better known as apricot kernel oil, is an emollient that helps protect the skin surface and provide a smoothing effect on the skin. It has antioxidant benefits and do not antagonise the clogging of your skins pores.

Q
Quora Noni (Morinda Citrifolia Callus Culture Lysate)

Morinda Citrifolia Callus Culture Lysate is a concentrated metabolome of totipotent cells from Noni (Morinda citrifolia), rich in anti-quorum sensing molecules (Anti- Quormones) specially designed for “dermohacking”: to act synergistically against Quorum Sensing mediated microbial dysbiosis while perfecting the skin appearance. It blocks the microbiome communication signals to avoid the formation of biofilms and the development of virulence, without killing or threatening the microbiota.

R
Retinol

Retinol has within the last couple of years become an ingredient to look for and not without reason. It’s a lighter and more gentle form of the ingredient retinoid that comes from vitamin A. Retinol has multiple benefits like unclogging pores, reducing severity of acne-scars, and improving skin texture and tone. In other words, it’s amazing for acne prone skin. Besides these benefits, retinol has anti-aging properties: It can boost the so-called collagen synthesis and thereby reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

Rhus Succedanea Fruit Cera

Is also called Japan wax due to its origin from the berries of the sumac Rhus succedanea, which grows in Japan and China. In cosmetic formulations it’s used as an emulsion stabiliser, ensuring a stable mixture of oil and water-based ingredients. Rhus Succedanea Fruit Cera also increase the spreadability for formulations, thereby ensuring a creamy consistency and easier application.

Ricinus communis seed oil

Ricinus communis seed oil, better known as castor oil, comes from the castor bean plant. It has so many benefits including helping other ingredients absorb deep into the skin, protect against UV-light, and prevent the skin from losing moisture during the day.

S
Salicylic acid

Salicylic acid helps to correct the shedding of skin cells, that tend to be responsible for clogging pores in acne prone skin. Another feature of salicylic acid is its water solubility which makes it capable of entering the pores and thereby remove debris and improve the inflammation healing process.

Serine

Is naturally occurring amino acid that plays several important roles within the human body including: DNA production, cell membrane support, and fatty acid metabolism. In cosmetic formulations, serine facilitates collagen production, boosts skin elasticity, and replenishes moisture levels.

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Is better known as jojoba oil, a natural ingredient derived from the seeds of the desert shrub, simmondsia chinensis. In cosmetic formulations, jojoba oil contributes to emulsion and as a skin conditioning agent. The skin conditioning properties comes from its composition of fatty acids, which are also found naturally in human skin.

Skin conditioning complex

The skin conditioning complex is a vegetable-based alternative to lanolin, which has the same beneficial properties without the risk of a contact allergy. It’s comprised of Rhus succedanea fruit cera, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Cetearyl alcohol, Myristyl alcohol, Caprylic/Capric triglyceride, Copernicia cerifera cera, and Tocopherol.

Sodium anisate

Sodium anisate is well known for its antifungal properties, and is widely used to prevent fungicides from contaminating personal care products.

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Benzoate has both anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties, making it perfect for its use as a gentle preservative.

Sodium chloride

Now this is one of the simplest of the ingredients on your list. It’s actually just common table salt! It has no magical powers whatsoever but it plays an important role in ensuring the correct thickness of the water-based part of your cream when we mix it with the oil-based part. Simple but hard to live without (just like when you use it in your kitchen, when you think about it).

Sodium deoxycholate

Sodium deoxycholate. Try saying that three times fast! Behind the complicated name is an ingredient with the powers of breaking fat molecules apart. Cool, huh? In the low concentration we use in Nøies products, the ingredient won't damage your skin barrier, but you still get the benefit: It can help retinol reach deep into your skin so it can work its magic.

Sodium hydroxide

Is often used in low concentrations in personal care products as a pH regulating agent. The skin’s pH is slightly acidic (between 4 and 6), giving it a protective environment against bacteria and pollutants that can contribute to premature aging and irritation. It is therefore important that skincare products mimic the skin’s own pH as closely as possible, and this is why sodium hydroxide is used.

Sodium Lactate

Is a so-called alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), and is derived from either cornstarch or potatoes. Even though Sodium Lactate is an AHA, it’s also part of the skin’s own natural moisturising factors. Sodium Lactate has different functions depending on its concentration in the product, varying from exfoliating abilities to moisturising properties.

Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate

Is a natural ingredient derived from sources such as coconut oil and fermented sugar. Despite being classified as a surfactant, typically known for drying out the skin, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate actually protects the skin from drying out by retaining moisture. In cream based cosmetics, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate is typically added for its anti-static properties and not for its cleansing abilities.

Sodium PCA

Is a natural compound present in nearly all living cells, from bacteria to humans. In the skin cells, Sodium PCA functions as a moisturising humectant that attracts and retains moisture in the skin. This is why it’s also part of the skin’s own Natural Moisturising Factors (NMFs). This replenishing of naturally occuring NMFs contributes to more smooth, hydrated and firm skin.

Squalane

Squalane is a natural part of the skin's own lipid layer known as sebum, where it acts as a protective layer. The oil have a softening effect on the skin, it absorbs fast into the skin, and function as a carrier for other fatsoluble ingredients. The use of squalane leaves the skin with a smooth appereace, free from dry and rough patches.

Stearic acid

Can be derived from both animal and vegetable fat and oils, but at Nøie only use stearic acid that is vegetable-derived (of course!). In cosmetic formulations, the primary function of stearic acid is an emulsifying and thickening agent, but some sources also describes stearic acid as an important component of stratum corneum lipids (the lipid matrix in the outer layers of the skin).

T
Threonine

Is a small essential amino acid, meaning that the human body isn’t capable of synthesising it. It promotes growth through protein maintenance. By assisting the creation of other amino acids necessary for production of collagen and elastin, threonine is also believed to be helpful in terms of wound healing.

Tocopherol

Belongs to a class of organic chemical compounds called tocopherols, which have 'vitamin E activity'. This activity contributes to healthy skin by protecting the skin from free radical damage, and by strengthening the skin’s natural barrier function. When left unchecked, free radicals are known to “grab” electrons in the skin, thereby causing damage to DNA and speeding up the aging process.

Tocopheryl acetate

This ingredient is a type of vitamin E. It’s known to be an excellent antioxidant, which means it can protect your skin from so-called free radicals from UV-light, cigarette smoke, air pollution or the like and thereby avoiding the risk of DNA damage.

Tumeria Zen (Curcuma Longa Callus Lysate)

Curcuma longa callus lysate is part of an ingredient complex that acts as an anti-stress wrinkles, emotional hydration manager and modulator of the Brain-skin connection. The active is the concentrated metabolome of totipotent cells from Curcuma longa rhizome. This metabolome is rich in stress-related cell factors specially designed to act synergistically against brain-skin connection induced stress.

U
Urea

Is properly better known as carbamide in personal care products. Urea constitutes 7% of the skin’s Natural Moisturising Factors (NMFs), and besides being a very important humectant it also has additional benefits that are determined by the concentration of this ingredient in the product. Among these are: improving permeability of the skin and providing pain and itch relief. It also has exfoliating properties when used at high concentrations.

Customised skincare that works.
Really.

It's time for a new approach to problematic skin:
one that's smart, helpful,
and above all - honest.

Start skin test